Log #63l Playa del Coco

November 15, 2019 in Log Series 60-69, Logs by Series, Series 63, The Logs

Log #63l Playa del Coco

Quepos Costa Rica

March 15, 2019

Hi Folks,

This log gets us to the touristy bay of Playa del Coco (“playa” means “beach”) in company with three other boats in Costa Rica. It has some good pictures of zip lining and flora and fauna from a national park.

We are still here in Quepos, resigned to another week waiting for our water pump. Oh well!

We are doing many odds and sods in Veleda while bobbing at anchor here. About 150 metres inshore of us is a sand bar which provides good surf for surf boarders, and has a sheltered channel behind along the shoreline leading into a large lagoon heavily occupied with fishing boats. Periodically, especially nearing low tide, the Pacific swells increase and we rise up over four feet and fall four feet as the swells roll to the beach. We have seen surfers out there at 6:00 am. Initially, we thought they were going to be bashed on the rocks lining the shore but then saw there was an open channel behind the sand bar to cushion any landings for the surfers.

Judy is almost finished the new dinghy cover, and I am getting caught up on my logs as you can see from the frequency with which you are getting them. I would like to be up to date with them before we head back to Elliot Lake.

All the best,



Log #63l Playa del Coco

Quepos Costa Rica

March 14, 2019

 Playa del Coco (10° 33.719′ N, 085° 41.633′ W) is a popular touristy beach town. The main disadvantage for cruisers is that there is no town dock, and all dinghies have to be beach landed, being careful not to be swamped in the surf and hauled up above the high tide mark.

                                                                  Playa del Coco

There are the remains of a concrete pier above the high tide line at the base of the main drag which goes perpendicular to the beach, and a promenade parallels the beach, lined with several nice restaurants. Much of the bay is filled with local fishing and tour boats, so transient cruisers have to anchor on the far side. Another problem we found when dinghying over is that many of the mooring buoys had long pickup lines trailing several feet along the surface risking the outboard propellers getting caught in them. Further up the main street are grocery stores, ferreterias (hardware stores), a chandlery and several tour operators. The town is also a port of entry, although we had to go 25 km up to Liberia airport to do our immigration procedures. The three of us (me, Eric, and Rowan, as Shearwater and Taliesin Rose were anchored nearby) shared a taxi to and from the airport.

For the week we spent there (Jan. 29 to Feb. 5), we took our dinghy ashore only once when we had help hauling it up the beach. We went in with others when we could. Wheels on the back of the dinghy are a must if one is doing the Baja or the Pacific coasts of Mexico and Central America. We plan to buy some at the first opportunity, as we are very restricted in our ability to haul our heavy dinghy up a beach by ourselves. A few time I dropped Judy off at the beach to wade the last few feet to shore, and then returned to pick her up at a preset time, thus obviating the need to drag the dinghy up the beach.

Our three boats went for an outing to a zip line park for some interesting zip lining and a zoo visit. We have been zip lining before, so this was no big deal for us. Even one of the children went on it and did quite well.

                                                                  Lucy on the zip line

     Judy on the Zip Line

The zoo had some interesting animals, monkeys, alligators, macaws, and snakes. The children enjoyed the petting corral where they were able to pet the sheep and hold a newborn lamb. For some reason, my left hip was acting up and had been for a couple of days, to the extent that I declined walking to the upper two zip lines. It seems OK now. I hope it was just a temporary glitch. Usually, I am not one to decline a hike or a climb.

As well, we all went in to a local bar to watch the Super Bowl football game but left at half time as it was getting late and our ride back was leaving.

We bought a transmission cable at the chandlery and Judy was able to install it. Well done Judy! We have a long bolt which now serves as the gearshift lever. It works.

For two nights Diamond Head was at anchor as well, and they joined us on board Shearwater during a crew change for a sushi night. Both other boats had caught some mahi-mahi and tuna, and so we made a big batch of sushi for a pleasant evening aboard Shearwater.

From right to left are: Patti (Shearwater), Vicki, Emmy, Lucy (Taliesin Rose), and a crew member from Diamond Head

                                                                  Enjoying the sushi

One morning I dropped Judy off at the beach at 0630 for a 0700 park tour to Finca Verde at Volcano Tenorio, and I had Veleda to myself for the day. Judy does not use the small Fuji camera very often, but she got some good pictures of activities in the park as shown below. Well done Judy.

Howler Monkey

                                                            Poisonous Blue Jean Frog

 Three-Toed Sloth with baby

Crested Guan on a car in the parking lot 

                                              An enjoyable swim at the waterfalls

We left Playa del Coco at 1300 on Feb. 5 for a short passage of only 6.6 nautical miles up to Bahia Huevos (10° 38.367′ N, 085° 40.711′ W), a glorious well- sheltered isolated bay with a navigable mangrove-lined river emptying into the head of it. A few tourist boats went to a beach at the outer end each afternoon, but we had the whole bay to ourselves each of the two nights we were there. I like the complete isolation where I cannot see a single light of civilization. After a skinny dip swim, I turned off the anchor light for a while to just star gaze at the diamond-studded celestial sphere. More about this beautiful bahia with pictures in my next log.