Log #62h to Santa Rosalia

April 9, 2017 in Logs by Series, Series 62, The Logs

Log #62h Puerto Escondido to Santa Rosalia

Toronto, Ontario

April 25, 2017

Hi Folks,

It has been a long time since my last log, as we have been very busy returning to Ontario where we have been staying with friends and family. The trailer is in a repair shop for a few problems, but it will be a month before it is ready, due to the backlog at the RV shop. We wanted to use it for bird watching at Point Pelee Provincial Park next week, but we may have to motel it instead. Judy went bird watching up in Algonquin Park two weeks ago and was tramping through a foot of snow!

We are having some interesting problems with our health insurance. For some reason they do not accept Judy’s cousin’s condo as our address. So we may have to clip our wings and buy or rent a house or apartment to justify our Ontario residency. We are heading up to Elliot Lake this weekend to check out some economical seniors’ housing. Bureaucracy is the bane of itinerant travellers such as us!

It has been good seeing old friends and family.

This log gets us through some scenic coastlines, and displays of whales and dolphins. I enjoy writing the logs, especially now we are away from the boat. It gives me a chance to review where we were and the pictures I took. I have several slide shows lined up about our sailing, and will be making three presentations at the Port Credit In Water Boat Show Aug. 25, 26, and 27.

We have a mobile phone number 437 344 2823 now we are back, and would like to hear from our Ontario friends, and perhaps arrange a visit or a sail? (Hint hint). We will be around until late October when we will head back to Veleda in San Carlos, Mexico.

All the best, Aubrey

#####################################################################################

Log #62h To Santa Rosalia

Written at Toronto

April 9, 2017

We finally left Puerto Escondido Jan. 31, without our mail having arrived. They would forward it to us in San Carlos when we arrive there in early March. Motoring 21 miles north to Isla Los Coronados (26° 06.686′ N, 111° 16.998′ W), we enjoyed an interesting walk along the beach and through the desert foliage up to the lava field.

Judy on the beach                                          Trail leading up to the lava field                    We didn’t go into the rocky lava field as we only had on sandals

It reminded us of our camping with our trailer on BLM land in Arizona and New Mexico. When we returned to the shoreline a small tour group was enjoying the shade of a primitive thatched shelter and the tour guides were shucking clams and roasting them on an open fire. We talked with these Mexican tourists, and enjoyed several of the roasted clams, some with added spices, lemon and hot sauces. Mmmm! 

On our way back to Veleda we stopped by a Canadian boat, Imagine, from Quebec, and had a nice talk with them using both English and our high school French. We found the anchorage a bit rolly. Leaving the next morning we saw a pod of about 30 sperm whales cavorting in a southerly direction. We altered towards them for about a half hour, and informed Imagine, which was a mile towards the shore from us. They too altered over to watch them for a while. We do not approach within 100 metres of such creatures in order not to disturb them, and to keep a safe distance so we do not appear threatening to them. It happened to be Judy’s birthday, Feb. 1st and she was appreciative of the display as a birthday present.

Twenty miles later we anchored in San Juanico (26° N, 22.169′ 111° 16.998′ W), a well sheltered pleasant bay with craggy rocks, pinnacles and spires for a scenic dinghy ride around these features.

 

 

  Isla Spires

Along the shoreline is a flotsam tree, or memory bush, decorated by cruisers with mementos and gear to commemorate their visits to San Juanico. We have come across a few of these in various bays and inlets in the Caribbean, B.C. and now here in Mexico. Some think such displays are quaint art forms, others think they are pollutants of otherwise pristine nature. I tend to agree with the latter sentiment.

Memory Bush 

 

   Flotsam Beach   


However, San Juanico is one of the best anchorages along the Baja.

We left at 2345 (11:45 pm) next day, Feb, 2nd for an overnight passage of 54 miles to anchor in Playa Santispac inside the large Bahia Conception, a 21 mile long bay, by noon hour next day. Playa Santispac is the northernmost and best sheltered of several playas in Bahia Coyote just inside Bahia Conception.

The sandy shoreline was dotted with dozens of RVs and a couple of restaurants behind them. It is an organized camping area with the RVs able to get a good view of the beach, but cordonned off the sandy shoreline so every one can enjoy this long beach stretch. About half the RVs were Canadian. The cost was a nominal $5.00 or $10.00 a day which included a water source and garbage disposal, but no electricity and no sewer hookups or dump station. Once or twice a week local trucks would come down to sell their fresh produce and seafood

  

                                                            Beach and Vegetable truck at San Juanico

RVing down the Baja appears to be a popular and economic way to holiday short or long term in Mexico. We have seen many RVs in semi-organized parks such as this and others out in the wild or along uninhabited bays.

While there we collected another pail of mussels just off the beach for a nice shellfish chowder. I also watched the Super Bowl at one of the restaurants.

  We explored a lagoon at the end of this beach, but did not take Veleda down to the other beaches in Bahia Coyote, or those further down Bahia Conception. This is a lovely area where a boater could spend several weeks or more anchoring off and exploring the beaches and anchorages.

Feb. 6 we motored 42 miles from Bahia Coyote to anchor inside the camber of Santa Rosalia (27° 20. 403′ N, 112° 15.796′ W). We called ahead to the marina but received no reply, and thus anchored at the far end of the camber, near another Canadian boat, St. Leger. On the passage up we were favoured by a couple of dolphin visits, one where a few bottle nosed dolphins played around our bow wave for a few minutes, and another where we saw a large pod of dolphins feeding and frolicking just off Punta Aguja.

Michael and Doreen on St. Leger filled us in on local knowledge of the marina and town. Next day we motored across the camber to go alongside the Marina Fonatur, another Fonatur marina with an identical building to that seen in Puerto Escondido, and similarly under-used with three quarters of the stores and offices vacant. However, the basic services of showers and laundromat were operational but with no power or potable water. The marina is in easy walking distance of downtown Santa Rosalia. We stayed alongside for three nights at only $10.00 a night.

More about Santa Rosalia in my next log. A nice town!