Log #50m Fjords of Newfoundland 5

December 11, 2010 in Log Series 50-59, Logs by Series, Series 50, The Logs

East Lake Fish Camp, Orlando, Florida

Dec. 11, 2010

Hi Folks,

This delayed log has turned into our Christmas and Holiday Greetings and best wishes for all of you for the New Year 2011.

This year of 2010 has been a very full one. We were travelling through the American South, West, and Midwest in our trailer (Louisiana, Mississippi, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California, Nevada, Colorado, Utah, Kansas, Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, and Michigan), back to Toronto where we camped in the parking lot of the Mission for Seafarers and at our home club, the Toronto Hydroplane and Sailing Club. From the end of March to the middle of July we worked very heavily, seven days a week, on a total overhaul and refitting of Veleda.

We left on my birthday, July 19, to head out the St. Lawrence and over to the fjords on the southwest coast of Newfoundland. We weathered a couple of hurricanes while in the French island of St. Pierre, only to be damaged in a storm on our passage to Sydney on Cape Breton Island. We left Veleda in Baddeck to complete the paint repairs over the winter, and returned to our trailer in Toronto for the month of October before heading off again in the trailer for points south. We visited friends in Connecticut and Baltimore on our way down and left the trailer in Norfolk, Virginia for two weeks as we crewed with Doug Caldwell on his Monk 36 trawler down to Charleston.

On our return to the trailer we visited Judy’s sister and family in Panama City, Florida, and are now down here getting ready for our plane trip from Orlando to Santiago, Chile where we will board a Holland American Line cruise ship for an Antarctic cruise around Cape Horn and up to Buenos Aires.

Our health is good and we are looking forward to another full year of travels from the Antarctic to the Florida Keys, back to Toronto, to Veleda, and cruising the east coast. In October we will be catching the Queen Mary across to England for a naval activity and a couple of weeks visiting friends in England and the continent. In November and December we will work our way down the Carolinas, Georgia and Florida with Veleda, heading to Cuba Belize and Guatemala in the New Year 2012.

We hope all is well with you, and again wish you the best for a Merry Christmas, and a Happy Holiday and New Year 2011.

All our best,
Aubrey and Judy

PS You should get an invitation from Picasa to view additional pictures from this log. Just click on the website.

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Log #50m Fjords of Newfoundland 5

Mission to Seafarers, Toronto

Nov. 9, 2010

The last log had us drifting contentedly at the head of Rencontre Bay as we enjoyed lunch on Oct. 30. The bay was too deep to anchor and so we just drifted for 45 minutes enjoying the scenery of the waterfall and the valley stretching up the end of the fjord (see attached picture). While there we watched a bald eagle soaring around the cliff tops and heard the haunting call of a loon. The enchantment of such a location was one of the many high points of our sojourn along the fjords of Newfoundland. A tranquil lunch in a spectacular setting!

(The remainder of this log was not written until Dec. 11 where we are at the East Lake Fish Camp outside of Orlando, Florida.)

After lunch, we got underway and exited this fjord to motor 16 nautical miles around to Morgan’s Arm (47 42.93N, 056 31.15W) at the end of Hare Bay, another spectacular fjord. We dropped the anchor for a few hours and dinghied ashore to the picturesque waterfall (see attached photo). Judy stayed at the base hoping to pick some blueberries while I clambered up the side of the pewter and ochre coloured striated rocky cascade. As I scrambled up and over each rock face I was greeted with a water level panorama of the rushing rapids. The views were spectacular both looking up the falls and down over the inlet where Veleda was anchored 500 yards out. The day was clear and sunny. The azure sky contrasted with the white bubbling waters and light tannic- coloured currents as they washed over the flat ferrous rocks. The falls tumble down a wide expanse of underlying rust-streaked rock surfaces fringed by loden greenery, and a variety of white red, and BLUE ! berry loaded shrubs. I didn’t have a bag to collect the blueberries, so I stashed them in my hat as I explored the crest of the falls, and edged my way back down. There were tranquil little pools of crystal clear water showing the striated seams of ferrous, pewter, and white quartzite smooth stone indentations. I hope some of my pictures do justice to the beauty of this enchanting scene.

I had to be careful edging down so as not to crush the couple of quarts of blueberries I had gathered. Unfortunately where Judy waited at the water level with the dinghy, there were no blueberry bushes for her to gather any. However, I had more than enough for a blueberry cobbler for desert that evening.

I toyed with the idea of anchoring for the night closer to the falls, but the basin was too shallow, and we had a forecast of heavy winds to come. So we went around the Arm to anchor inside Sandy Point, well sheltered from the north through east to the southwest. However, Murphy’s Law, we had 20 knots of wind from the northwest, the only quadrant to which we were exposed. But Veleda had her anchor and we didn’t move at all. We are very happy with our Claw anchor, a clone of the Bruce anchor. Of course 80 feet of chain in 15 feet of water helps.

We enjoyed the blueberry cobbler, but ran out of propane as we cooked supper. Fortunately we have a small portable propane canister stove which we were able to use for the rest of the meal and for breakfast. But that meant we had to get to a port where we could refill. So next day we motored the 8 miles out of Hare Bay, our last fjord, to head another 43 miles down the Burin Peninsula to Fortune (47 04.3N, 055 49.87W), a fishing port with a marina and boat yard. On the way we saw several dolphins, some of whom came to play around our bow wave. They are always welcome creatures.

The people at the marina were most helpful and friendly. A gentleman moored ahead of us came down to help us in and then gave me the keys to his white truck up on shore to go over town for propane and groceries. The truck happened to be a new Hummer four door cab with an open cargo well. When we went around in his truck to register at the office we were offered the use of the harbourmaster’s car, which we politely declined. We stocked up on propane, diesel, and groceries, but since our next destination was to be the French islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, we did not get any wines, cheeses or pates. An unfortunate aspect of the marina is that the marina docks are on one side of the inlet, with the boatyard at the end, and the marina office and fish docks at the opposite side. The boat yard does not have any walk through, and so to get to the office is a long half mile or more around the entire fenced off boatyard. A car is needed or the dinghy could be used to get over there otherwise. We left next morning for the 25 mile trip southwest across to the St. Pierre Yacht Club (Club Nautique) (46 46.61N, 056 10.49W), and battened down for a few days in preparation for Hurricane Earl which was headed this way.