Log #50l Fjords of Newfoundland 4

September 27, 2010 in Log Series 50-59, Logs by Series, Series 50, The Logs

Baddeck, NS

Sept. 27, 2010
Hi Folks,

We’re still here and probably will be for a day or three more, as the weather forecast is miserable to go down the coast towards Halifax for the next three days. An alternative that we are considering is to stay here until we settle with the insurance company and leave Veleda here to get painted over the winter, returning to Ontario and then travelling the winter again in our travel trailer down south. If the insurance company accepts the estimate we have from this Baddeck Marina, we will probably do so. We feel that the weather is so bad that if we did go on to Halifax, we would just try to make time going south to the Chesapeake to escape the cold and bad maritime weather, and not be able to enjoy the Maritimes. If we leave Veleda here for the winter, we would return next spring and spend another couple of months in perhaps Newfoundland again, and Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, as well as enjoying Maine, and the New England states on our way south. Judy likes the idea of escaping this cold stormy weather, rather than pressing on to Halifax. We’ll see.

This log #50l gets us into more beautiful fjords with cliffs and waterfalls, an outport and another abandoned outport. Again I have the problem of which pictures to attach to the log, and which to put on the Picasa website. I do hope you check with the Picasa website as I have many more beautiful shots of waterfalls, brooding cliffs, (aren’t they all brooding?), and vistas up fantastic mountain fringed fjords. You should get a separate E-mail from Picasa inviting you to view my album. I try to restrict the attached pictures to six or eight, as some may have problems downloading too many. If you have any problems with the size or number of attached photos, please let me know.

When we left Newfoundland, we sailed over to Fortune on the Burin Peninsula before going to St. Pierre. We don’t know if Fortune or St. Pierre and Miquelon got hit by Igor, but we have heard of much damage on the coast and the south east parts of Newfoundland. I am happy that the Navy and other Canadian Armed Forces are helping out with the recovery operations.

I’ll keep you up to date on our modified plans.

All the best,
Aubrey

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Log #50l Fjords of Newfoundland 4

Baddeck, NS
Sept. 26, 2010

In this enchanting Northwest Arm of the Grey River fjord, we dinghied around the shorelines marvelling at the 1000 foot cliffs that came right down to the water’s edge, and the granite cliffs guarding each turn of the fjord, brooding over the inlets. At the far end of our inlet a few cottages sat tucked into little bays or looking out on the low headlands. On one of them a man was repairing his roof and gave us a happy wave as we motored by. As we were looking at another cottage neatly tucked under the trees back from the water, the owners arrived in a small boat and invited us in. Jake and Ruby have a delightful cottage with a few outbuildings for a generator and storage, as well as a traditional outhouse. They have a fantastic view up the arm from their outdoor deck. They live in Jerts Cove at the entrance to the Grey River, six miles out the fjord where Jake works for the mining industry. He built the cottage and has plans to add an additional room for family visits from their children and grandchildren. We enjoyed a moose meat lunch before we departed. Friendly hospitable Newfoundlanders!

Later that day an Australian sloop anchored inside of our location for the night. We dinghied over next day to say hello and to trade some books. The boat had just come down from Labrador and was heading for Cape Breton where it was planned to winter. We may see them down here.

The second morning was not misty, but instead had clear sunshine. It was interesting to see the long shadows of the mountains to the east as they were cast across the arm, the crests of the western slopes illuminated with a warm golden glow which crept downwards as the sun rose. We left at 0930 after visiting the Aussie boat, and headed out the long narrow mountain-fringed channels of the fjord. Around each bend the rising sun cast warm glows or was shadowed behind the towering ridgelines. En route we saw a harbour seal imperiously drifting off the shoreline, checking its domain.

Six miles down from our anchorage we exited the fjord into quieter open waters than those in which we entered two days ago. On our way along the 15 miles of coast to Aviron Bay we were passed by a pod of dolphins that briefly cavorted beside us but did not stay around to play across our bow. We saw a few more trickle waterfalls from seaward, but they were not heavy outpours, as it was now four days since the last rainstorm. By 1320 we were up the fjord into Aviron Bay at the Northeast Cove (47 35.45N, 056 48.94W), beneath another picturesque waterfall (see attached photo) and anchored for a half hour in that tranquil spectacular mountain fringed bay while we had lunch, disturbed only by the soothing white noise of the waterfall. Idyllic!

On we went, down the two miles into open water and around to the outport of Francois (pronounced Franzway by the locals) (47 34.71N, 056 44,68W) for another distance of only 10.2 nautical miles. We were helped alongside the town pier floating dock by the crew of an attractive America ketch, Sisyphus, out of Woods Hole. We wandered through the town, a traditional outport, with concrete pathways large enough for four wheel ATV’s linking the homes, school, a couple of stores, medical clinic, and town/government office, to the incinerator/dump at one side and the ferry pier at the other end. From Veleda I watched as an ATV made several trips from the fishing pier up the hill and over to the ferry dock carrying two plastic boxes front and back full of fish each trip. It also transported a rambunctious six year old child sitting in front on his daddy’s lap squealing with delight as the ATV manoeuvred around the wooden planked fishing pier with its load and up the steep inclines over to the ferry dock.

On we went next day, noting another seal possessively surveying the entrance to its domain as we exited. Another eight miles along the coast we entered Rencontre Bay, another long fjord ending in a couple of extended arms. Just inside, past Little Bay, we motored into the bay at Rencontre West, another outport abandoned since 1970, and now with only a few houses still standing, some occupied for summer residences, but with most of the other buildings disintegrated into rubble (see attached photo). We didn’t bother anchoring or going ashore there, as going through the rubble of what 40 years ago was a vibrant, attractively located community would be too sad to witness. Instead we turned out of the bay and headed up the other arm to the Gorge, just before the narrow end of the arm. A picturesque waterfall (see attached photo) cascading down the steep mountain cliffside gave life to the grey forbidding rock face on our starboard as we went further up towards the Gorge. The Gorge itself was a crevasse in the granite cliffs, as if cleaved by the thunderbolts of Zeus. Beyond the Gorge was a small bay, the valley extending up into the mountain range straight ahead, but to the left was another waterfall, a three stage cascade, with only the middle cataract visible, the upper shrouded in the tree line, and the lower concealed by an ancient rock fall (see attached photo). The depth was over 100 feet, and so we just drifted in this fairyland bay (47 36.89N, 056 41.26W), the waterfall on one side, a verdant valley stretching up into the mountains at the end, and brooding cliffs overlooking this end cove of the fjord, and as we contentedly enjoyed a delicious lunch we saw a bald eagle and heard the call of a couple of loons. We broke the enchanted spell when we turned on the engine and headed back down the narrow waterway a half hour later.