Log #22e To Istria

September 11, 2001 in Log Series 20 - 29, Logs by Series, Series 22 Croatia, The Logs

Log #22e To Istria

Hvar, Croatia
Sept. 11, 2001
Covers the period Aug. 13 to 17, 2001

(NB – This log was written in the morning of Sept. 11, 2001 while at anchor in Hvar just after our guest had left for Rome. A few hours later a boater came over to ask if we had heard about the attack on the U.S. We then tuned in to BBC to hear of the attack on the Twin Towers.)

We left Luka Tijascico, on the south of Otok Tijat, early at 0645 in order to make as much distance as possible before the afternoon northwesterlies started to blow against us. We started in light northerly winds and actually sailed for an hour before having to motor into NW winds of force 4 by 1130. By 1520 after travelling 40 miles, we anchored in 15 feet of water in Uvala Prtljug (44 06.5N, 015 46.7E) on the west coast of Otok Ugljan, a long narrow bay off an indentation, with good protection from all but SE winds. The bottom was a bit rocky and we had to make two tries before the anchor held. We just had sufficient room to swing a full 360 degrees, and we had the whole inlet to ourselves.

I donned mask, fins, and snorkel, and after checking out the anchor explored the shoreline up to the dock of an abandoned house near the end of the bay. I enjoy going through old abandoned buildings, and imagining who built the structures and the hopes and dreams of the families or groups that lived in them or used them for their livelihood. This appeared to be an unfinished house, now overgrown by brambles and scrub brush. It would have had a lovely view of the inlet and out into the open channel. I wandered through the concrete and masonry debris, up the steps of a patio entrance, through the rubble-strewn rooms, up the concrete stairs to three rooms and another balcony overlooking the bay. It would have or could have been a most pleasant isolated seaside home, but now just an abandoned semi-finished structure.

Next day, Aug. 14, the same routine, off just after sunrise at 0601 to motor into light westerly winds for 42 miles until anchoring in the popular Uvala Artaturi (44 34.4N, 014 24.5E) on Otok Losinj. It is a large inlet with three large bays at the head. The holding in 30 feet of water was good, but the bays were crowded with at least fifty boats enjoying the warm weather and clear warm water. We took Sprite about three miles down to Mali Losinj to get fuel and do some marketing. The town was definitely set up for the tourist trade along its waterfront. Its narrow alleys winding up the hillside were interesting but confusing as we found ourselves in someone’s entrance by accident a couple of times while trying to find the market. This is a very popular area.

As we left Veleda we saw, on their Elan 31, Marjan and Mila whom we had met a few days earlier in Zlarin. We had a good visit with them on board their boat after supper. They were on their way home to Slovenia. When we indicated we were going to Trieste, Marjan asked if we would be able to meet with his son Andraz, also an avid sailor, while there.

Next day, after finding no bus service near Uvala Artaturi, as we wanted to go up island to Osor, we decided to take Veleda up instead. Osor is a ancient town, strategic because of a canal built before the Roman era between the islands of Cres and Losinj. We tied up at the entrance to the canal at the north side and toured the quaint medieval walled town. It is a living museum, with a population of only 80 permanent residents to keep the buildings, homes, churches, stores, post office, tourist office, town hall, town square, Bishop’s palace, museums and the swing bridge link between the islands “alive”. Several buildings are in a state of disrepair, but the major sites are in good condition. The town is noted for its musical evenings and the modern bronze sculptures which adorn several streets and buildings.

The bridge opens only twice daily at 0900 and 1700 for boats transiting between the islands. After 1600 many boats were circling around waiting for the 1700 opening. A large goulette, MV Poseidon, a tourist passenger cruising boat about 100 feet in length, needed to dock where we were. We slipped our moorings and then rafted along the outside of the goulette for the night.

Next day, Aug. 16, after getting fresh bread in town, we left at 0815 and motored 22 miles up to anchor in 10 feet of water in Medulinski Zaliv (44 49.3N, 013 55.3E) on the southern tip of the Istrian peninsula. This is a large peninsula on the northern coast of Croatia that extends up to Slovenia before angling northeast over to Trieste, Italy. Medulinski Zaliv is a popular vacation and tourist area, with several bays, many beaches, low offshore islands, and camp grounds, including a large nudist campsite. The bottom had good holding for anchoring, and the bays were sheltered from all directions. There is a good ACI marina as well. We took Sprite around to Medulin, the main town, and were impressed by the tourist office which in addition to a good range of pamphlets and maps, had E-mail computer access.

Next day we were off to Funtana, hoping our Simrad wheel pilot that Judy took there with Henry last week, is fixed.